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In the tradition of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Susan Orlean’s The Orchid Thief, and Mark Kurlansky’s Cod—a renowned culinary adventurer goes into the woods with the iconoclasts and outlaws who seek the world’s most coveted ingredient . . . and one of nature’s last truly wild foods: the uncultivated, uncontrollable mushroom.
Within the dark corners of America’s forests grow culinary treasures. Chefs pay top dollar to showcase these elusive and beguiling ingredients on their menus. Whether dressing up a filet mignon with smoky morels or shaving luxurious white truffles over pasta, the most elegant restaurants across the country now feature an abundance of wild mushrooms.
The mushroom hunters, by contrast, are a rough lot. They live in the wilderness and move with the seasons. Motivated by Gold Rush desires, they haul improbable quantities of fungi from the woods for cash. Langdon Cook embeds himself in this shadowy subculture, reporting from both rural fringes and big-city eateries with the flair of a novelist, uncovering along the way what might be the last gasp of frontier-style capitalism.
Meet Doug, an ex-logger and crabber—now an itinerant mushroom picker trying to pay his bills and stay out of trouble; and Jeremy, a former cook turned wild food entrepreneur, crisscrossing the continent to build a business amid cutthroat competition; their friend Matt, an up-and-coming chef whose kitchen alchemy is turning heads; and the woman who inspires them all.
Rich with the science and lore of edible fungi—from seductive chanterelles to exotic porcini—The Mushroom Hunters is equal parts gonzo travelogue and culinary history lesson, a rollicking, character-driven tour through a world that is by turns secretive, dangerous, and tragically American.
Praise for The Mushroom Hunters
“A rollicking narrative . . . Cook [delivers] vivid and cinematic scenes on every page.”—The Wall Street Journal
“The Mushroom Hunters lends fresh, sharp illumination to a little-known but vigorously contested patch of gastronomic turf. . . . [It’s an] entertaining ramble through the woods with a group of ragtag characters.”—The Washington Post
“Like Susan Orlean in The Orchid Thief, Seattle author [Langdon] Cook shines a light on a shady subculture operating at the seam between wilderness and commerce. Like author Michael Pollan, he knows that every bite of food these days has a complex, often unsavory backstory. Like the late Hunter Thompson, he not only goes along for the ride with the shifty characters he’s writing about, but drives the getaway car. After reading The Mushroom Hunters, you’ll never look at a portobello the same way. . . . [A] beguiling, surprising book.”—The Seattle Times
“Not simply about mushrooms, this book examines human behavior, economics, food, society, and nature. In the end, readers will have learned a great deal about U.S. economic and social structures—all while being entertained and enlightened by stories of gastronomy and mushrooms. Highly recommended.”—Library Journal
“Intrepid and inspired.”—Publishers Weekly
“Uncultivated mushrooms are one of our last truly wild foods; it often takes truly wild and rough mushroom hunters to bring them to our table. Cook travels and hunts with them in a riveting, crazy undertaking, told in often-poetic prose.”—Shelf Awareness
From the Hardcover edition.
- Sales Rank: #445829 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-09-10
- Released on: 2013-09-10
- Format: Kindle eBook
Amazon.com Review
An Amazon Best Book of the Month, September 2013: In your neighborhood grocery store sits a bin of nondescript white mushrooms, unthreatening and clearly-of-this-planet fungi that might have been plucked from the pages of Beatrix Potter tale. But for accomplished forager and outdoorsman Langdon Cook (Fat of the Land), the story goes much deeper. He took a long walk in the woods and returned with The Mushroom Hunters, a collection of delightful stories of a mycelial underground filled with eccentrics and obsessives who at first seem strange (and maybe even unsettling), but grow more charming by the page. This book is a ton of fun--equal parts adventure, natural history, and gastronomy. Naturalists (who aren’t necessarily foodies) will learn about some of the more exotic fungi and their uses on the table, while foodies (who might not be naturalists) will find the loamy details of the mushroom trail enlightening. Above all, The Mushroom Hunters will make you hungry. --Jon Foro
Author Langdon Cook on The Mushroom Hunters: On the Trail of an Underground AmericaThe idea for The Mushroom Hunters came to me while harvesting morel mushrooms in July, 2007, during an episode that’s briefly recounted in my first book, Fat of the Land. I was in the North Cascades of Washington State near the Canadian border, in one of the last truly wild regions of the Lower 48, home to wolves and grizzlies. A friend and I heard strange voices in the woods. Moments later we came face-to-face with two men, both wearing impossibly large packs filled with morels, maybe eighty pounds apiece. Unlike us, these men were picking mushrooms to sell, spending months in the bush working in abject conditions that would test the meddle of anyone. I had heard that commercial mushroom pickers often packed guns into the woods and guarded patches with territorial vigor. They stared at us and we stared at them. Nothing was said. Then, just like that, they turned on their heels and disappeared back into the timber. It was like a Bigfoot sighting.
After that I was determined to infiltrate the commercial wild mushroom trade, a scrappy, mostly hidden and itinerant enterprise that follows the mushroom flushes year-round, with echoes of Wild West frontier-style capitalism and Gold Rush days gone by. I was amazed that no one had ever written a book-length account of it, and was fortunate to meet a number of pickers and buyers who allowed me into their world. Over the next few years I traveled from my home in Seattle as far north as Yukon Territory and, come winter, camped with pickers on the Lost Coast of California. I went to Oregon and British Columbia, to Michigan, Montana, Colorado, and New York City, among other places, to follow the invisible food chain from patch to plate. I got on “the mushroom trail” and embedded myself in a subculture that is, for better or worse, indelibly American.
The Mushroom Hunters weaves together food, natural history, and outdoor adventure. It’s the result of thousands of hours spent with pickers, buyers, and chefs; hundreds of hours of taped interviews; and my own compulsion to work this first-hand material into a narrative that readers can appreciate, whether or not they’ve ever tasted a wild mushroom or even taken a walk in the woods.
Images by Author Langdon Cook Blond morels for sale in Sisters, Oregon.Click here for a larger image
Doug and Jeff scouting chanterelles on the Olympic Peninsula, Washington.Click here for a larger image
A picker's payday at matsutake camp, Crescent Lake, Oregon.Click here for a larger image
From Booklist
With the arrival of spring, North America’s woodlands begin to echo with the footfalls of stealthy and secretive hunters who aren’t after any animal. They are on the prowl for fungi springing from the awakening forest floor. Morel hunters eventually give way to other adepts foraging for later-arriving porcini and chanterelles. These hardy souls then meet up with even more shadowy types, dealers and middlemen, furtive guardians of mushroom supply and demand, who resell their booty to restaurants, greenmarkets, and the export trade. This gray market runs on cash only, and serious players in this secretive society are frequently armed. All this is in service of the fifth taste, umami, a prime flavor that mushrooms supply in such abundance that chefs willingly pay astronomical prices to please themselves and well-heeled guests. Cook’s sketches of these unique and idiosyncratic characters aren’t always wholly sympathetic, but he makes every one of them real. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
“A rollicking narrative . . . Cook [delivers] vivid and cinematic scenes on every page.”—The Wall Street Journal
“The Mushroom Hunters lends fresh, sharp illumination to a little-known but vigorously contested patch of gastronomic turf. . . . [It’s an] entertaining ramble through the woods with a group of ragtag characters.”—The Washington Post
“Like Susan Orlean in The Orchid Thief, Seattle author [Langdon] Cook shines a light on a shady subculture operating at the seam between wilderness and commerce. Like author Michael Pollan, he knows that every bite of food these days has a complex, often unsavory backstory. Like the late Hunter Thompson, he not only goes along for the ride with the shifty characters he’s writing about, but drives the getaway car. After reading The Mushroom Hunters, you’ll never look at a portobello the same way. . . . [A] beguiling, surprising book.”—The Seattle Times
“Not simply about mushrooms, this book examines human behavior, economics, food, society, and nature. In the end, readers will have learned a great deal about U.S. economic and social structures—all while being entertained and enlightened by stories of gastronomy and mushrooms. Highly recommended.”—Library Journal
“Intrepid and inspired.”—Publishers Weekly
“Uncultivated mushrooms are one of our last truly wild foods; it often takes truly wild and rough mushroom hunters to bring them to our table. Cook travels and hunts with them in a riveting, crazy undertaking, told in often-poetic prose.”—Shelf Awareness
“Cook’s sketches of these unique and idiosyncratic characters aren’t always wholly sympathetic, but he makes every one of them real.”—Booklist
“If you’ve never thought of using the words ‘mushroom’ and ‘adventure’ in the same sentence, this gripping book will force you to reconsider.”—Bill McKibben, author of Oil and Honey: The Education of an Unlikely Activist
“With superb detail and intrepid research, Langdon Cook leads a fascinating trek deep into the mysterious world of mushroom hunting, blending intriguing natural history and quirky characters with insights into this murky, sometimes dangerous business. This is riveting stuff for food lovers.”—Kathleen Flinn, author of The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry
“The Mushroom Hunters is one of those very infrequent and wonderful books that change your way of looking at something you think you don’t care about. Who knew the humble mushroom could be shot through with suspense? The way Langdon Cook writes about these delicious fungi—the excitement in the story of their capture; the flair of the telling—has me convinced I’d go pretty far out on the wire myself to get some.”—Darin Strauss, author of Half a Life
“A beautifully written portrait of the people who collect and distribute wild mushrooms, The Mushroom Hunters is food and nature writing at its finest. Langdon Cook's descriptions are so visceral you can smell the mushrooms, the forests, the rain on every page. This is a terrific book.”—Eugenia Bone, author of Mycophilia
“In these pages, you’ll meet America’s last nomads in all their ragamuffin glory. Langdon Cook brings these individuals to life with the eyes, ears, and heart of a first-rate novelist.”—Lawrence Millman, author of Last Places
“The Mushroom Hunters is like the forest itself—gems are hidden throughout. Cook captures the surreal and deeply flavorful world of North America’s wild fungi, the subculture that seeks them, and the thrill of the treasure hunt.”—Jim Robbins, author of The Man Who Planted Trees
“In The Mushroom Hunters, Langdon Cook unearths the iconoclastic frontier spirit of the obsessive band of underground foragers he encounters on the wild mushroom trail, including outlaw entrepreneurs, illegal immigrants, scofflaws, tweakers, and star chefs alike. You’ll never look at that matsutake on your dinner plate the same way again.”—Brad Thomas Parsons, James Beard Award–winning author of Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
He liked it.
By Beverly H. Rutledge
it was a gift for my son. He liked it.
33 of 36 people found the following review helpful.
A story of people, money and fungi
By Michael J. Edelman
To most people, mushrooms are still those bland, greying semicircles found on top of a pizza or in a bowl of pasta. But to anyone who has tasted a sautéed wild morel or chanterelle or lobster mushroom, or had fresh truffle shaved over their eggs or fettuccini, mushrooms can be the most amazing, sublime, delicious flavors to be found on Earth. Why this is the case is still a puzzle- what would be the evolutionary advantage for mushrooms to be so attractive to the human palate?- but they are. Mushrooms have, in recent years, changed from being a curiosity collected in this country by eccentrics and foreigners, into one of the most sought after delicacies presented in high end restaurants by top chefs. That kind of demand means money, and where there's money, there's bound to be both a legal, and an illegal trade- which leads us into the story at the center of this book.
Author Langdon Cook describes himself as an avid amateur forager and mushroom hunter. As such, he's a member of a rapidly growing group in this country. More and more Americans head into the woods every year looking for wild berries, tasty greens, and exotic mushrooms. But along with the amateurs there are also a number of professional mushroom hunters in search of exotic varieties, some of which can fetch $20/pound or more. Those hunters are part of a complex network of hunters, buyers, wholesalers, retailers and finally chefs willing to pay for an exotic mushroom. Cook's pursuit of that chain led him into the world of legal and not-so-legal mushroom hunters and traders, and in particular to a buyer named Jeremy Faber through whom he meets a number of hunters, both legal and illegal.
This is a story about mushrooms, but it's mainly a story about mushroom hunters, the world they live and trade in, and the money to be made buying and selling mushrooms. Cook does a superb job of telling this story, as he travels across the country, following the hunters and the mushrooms, and the story of the people turns out to be a lot more interesting the mushrooms. Stylistically, Cook's prose reminds me very much of John McPhee or Tracy Kidder, which is to say he's a very good writer. This is a very interesting story, whether or not you have any interest in mushrooms.
24 of 26 people found the following review helpful.
The French Connection meets Carlos Castanada
By Bunyyup
I loved this book!
My kids and I were mushroom hunters. We went out with the local Yahoo group, and it was a lot of fun. We also got to eat the mushrooms! Yeah! When I saw the Langdon Cook book, The Mushroom Hunters: On the Trail of an Underground America, it was a must read just for family history alone.
I got something different than I expected and likely of interest to a much larger audience.
Mr. Cook spins a very exciting yarn, and the language he uses is descriptive and rhythmic, "even outdoors, the autumn aroma hangs in the air like a beguiling cloud, hinting at marvelous rewards to come." The entire book is like that.
The book starts off by describing the underground culture of "outlaw" mushroom hunters. The trick is that, while it is not illegal to raise or harvest most mushrooms, it is illegal to hunt mushrooms in some Federal enclaves. Of course, it you want to bag several hundred pounds of mushrooms then that is exactly where you need to go.
Mr. Cook is able to hook up with a number of these underground hunters, and his adventures take place in the Pacific Northwest amongst the peaks of the Washington state mountains. All kinds of folk are underground mushroom hunters, but most have led a fairly exciting life. Some like Doug had near death experiences and brushes with hard drugs. Others like Farber and Choi were college drop outs that loved the forests of the Northwest and just wanted to do something that allowed them to work outdoors in the forests.
The author divides the mushroom hunters into "recreationals" and "professionals." The professionals are able to take in several hundred pounds of wild mushrooms per day.
While Mr. Cook did not dwell on the economics of the mushroom trade, it was interesting that the book talked about the stands that would pop up out of nowhere like mushrooms as each season of mushroom bloomed. The mushroom trade in the Northwest is year round.
The stories were very interesting and highly believable. Yes, not to spoil anything, but there are a few arrest and even a story of some of the professionals getting a license to pick the valuable mushrooms.
It was exciting rooting for the professionals to evade capture by the wary rangers of the National Parks.
The book ended at the funeral of one of the main characters that the reader had grown to love, and this final bit of pathos was a fitting touch to a book that told a riveting story and did not pull punches.
Whether you are an avid mushroom collector, a person who loves adventure stories set in the great forests of America, or just someone who wants to read an offbeat real world drama, this is the book for you.
I highly recommend it!
In service,
Rich
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